news from the loaf

  • Christmas is coming !

    Christmas is coming !

    Christmas, baking courses and much much more !

    Comments: 0


  • Sourdough September!

    Sourdough September!

    The ninth month is for celebrating sourdough - have a read to find out what we're up to...

    Comments: 0


  • French cheese week continues...

    French cheese week continues...

    French cheese frenzy at the loaf !

    Comments: 0


  • French cheese week at the loaf

    French cheese week at the loaf

    To celebrate to sporting success of France, we’ve shipped in a few of their finest cheeses!

    Comments: 0


  • Beware of sourfaux

    Beware of sourfaux

    As members of the real bread campaign, we are very proud to produce proper bread - this means no flavour enhancers or additives.

    Comments: 0


  • Crich Parish Well Dressing 2018 - Sow Seeds of Peace

    Crich Parish Well Dressing 2018 - Sow Seeds of Peace

    The loaf marks its tenth year in Crich by taking part in the 2018 Crich Parish Well Dressing event. In commemoration of the end of World War One, we aim to 'Sow Seeds of Peace'.

    Comments: 0


  • We did it!

    We did it!

    The final day of Andrew and Rob Auld's epic cycle from East to West across Britain and Ireland raising money for Prostate Cancer UK. Dunmore Head in their sights and some of Ireland's beautiful scenery to cross.

    Comments: 1


  • It's a BLEEP BLEEP to Tipperary!

    It's a BLEEP BLEEP to Tipperary!

    On day 4 of their challenge to cycle the 600 miles from England's furthest Easterly point to Ireland's furthest Westerly, Rob and Andrew head from Dublin to Tipperary. 

    Comments: 0


  • Wales green for a reason

    Wales green for a reason

    Crossing Wales as part of our five day C2C2C2C. Pressure on to catch the ferry in Holyhead...did we make it?

    Comments: 1


  • Across the middle of England

    Across the middle of England

    Second day of 600 mile cycle ride from Ness Point in Lowestoft to Dunmore Head in South West Ireland raising money for Prostate Cancer UK.

    Comments: 0

Page 1 of 10 Next

Visiting bakeries in Germany

by Andrew Auld

Andrew and Jorgen

At the end of the summer, Rog and I were lucky enough to spend a week with our dear friends in Itzehoe, Northern Germany. I spent a very happy year living there in my early twenties and have some wonderful friends from that time with whom we are in regular contact and who visit us often. This time though, we were visiting them for a family wedding and a birthday party. It was a great trip and as well as being a sociable visit, I was able to spend three of the nights we were away baking at the town's busy bakeries. All three were extremely welcoming and I learnt a great deal in preparation for my German Baking course: 'Brot' which I am offering from January.

First up was the small bakery behind the Café Königsberg - partiularly popular for it's huge range of bread rolls. I rolled up at around 1.30am and spent the first quarter of an hour or so chatting to the three apprentices outside about their training whilst we waited for Meisterbaecker Martin to arrive. The owner of Café Königsberg is a lecturer at the local college and has a continual stream of young apprentices moving through the bakery as they complete their development and training as a baker. Unlike here, in Germany you have to complete a three-year apprenticeship in order to be able to call yourself a baker and get a job in a bakery.

Head baker, Martin

Once Martin had arrived, naturally the hard work got under way! As specialists in the German breakfast favourite, the Brötchen (or bread roll), the Café produces over fifty different varieties. Particular favourites of the Germans are 'Laugenbrötchen' which are dipped in lye solution prior to baking to give them the distinctive shiny brown crust

Laugenbrötchen
Laugenbrötchen

Although interesting to see, I am unlikely to introduce them at the loaf given our keenness to avoid chemical additives! However, they did give the apprentices an opportunity to show of their skills in making fun designs of rolls for the younger customers

Laugenbrötchen before baking...

Before...

Laugenbrötchen after baking

... and after!

Martin took a great deal of time to show me his hand-molding skills and the different techniques used in producing different shapes of rolls. For example, here is a series of photos showing how Hörnchen are made.

Hoernchen being shaped
Hoernchen being shaped
Hoernchen out of the oven
Martin hand molding the bread

He also showed me a couple of techniques for getting different finishes on the loaves they produce. I particularly liked the finish on these beautiful rye breads.

Rye bread ready to go into the oven

Look at the lovely pattern on the rye breads from the proving basket. These are ready for the oven

Rye bread straight out of the oven

I just loved the way these came out !

head baker Jorge standing by the ovens

Next up was the patisserie specialist, Konditorei Frähmcke. Here I was welcomed initially by Jörg, the son of the father/son baking team. He turned out to be the German equivalent of a Real Bread proponent - just like me. I really got on well with him and was delighted to learn that their techniques, recipes and processes were all very familiar and similar to ours. Additive-free, using sourdough and preferments in all their breads and everything made by hand.

Jurgen standing by the ovens

When Jürgen, Jörg's father, arrived, I started to ask about one of my personal favourites - poppy seed cake, or Mohnkuchen. He was only too pleased to get underway with the two-day process involved in making delicious yeasted poppy seed cake, inviting me to pop back the next morning to watch him finish them off.

German baking books

Like me, Jörg has read up extensively to further his skills. A series of books he relies on are the Brotland Deutschland trio which I would just love to get my hands on! So if anyone out there has them and doesn't want them... !!!

German rye loaves straight out of the oven

Just loved these Ostpreussische rye loaves!

Jorge and I stood by the bakers table
Andrew tucking into Laugenbretzel

Tucking into Laugenbretzel that i had just learned how to shape and roll !

Andrew and Jorge making croissants

My final bakery visit was to Bäckerei Carstens. This is by far the biggest of the three bakeries and is run by Howe Carstens who I actually knew from my time teaching at the Kaiser Karl School twenty years previously. Howe had been in his final year at the time, and we actually took sport classes together and socialised with his group of friends in the local pubs! So it was really wonderful to see Howe in his bakery and to see it so busy and successful.



Despite its size (with 7 outlets and this year taking on 10 apprentices across the whole business!), Howe continues in his father's footsteps by making everything by hand and using traditional recipes and methods. One key difference, and one which was vital in a business of this scale, was the amount of product that was being frozen and chilled (retarded) during the production process. This was essential for being able to keep up with the volume of orders - particularly at the weekends. What impressed me most of all was the speed and hard work of the master baker, the bakers and the apprentices as they worked to produce literally thousands of each product line. All by hand. All in a relatively small bakery.

The fact that I don't have any photos to share of my visit here is testament to the fact that it was my third baking night during a short week when I had been socialising at full tilt during the days and evenings too! Evidence also of the fact that Howe put me to work hand-molding the two hundred odd fruit-loaves they had on order that day!! I am really hoping that Howe and his master baker pay us a visit here in Derbyshire so I can show them a rather more laid-back approach to baking (though we think we work quite hard too!!)!

I had an inspiring and educational week and, thanks to the organisation of Amke and Hans, my dear, dear German 'Eltern', I complete visits to three wonderful bakeries. Amke had also organised for the local newspaper to interview me so, if you read German, do have a look at the lovely article here.

more on this post

Categories

comments

leave a comment

Leave a comment